Tuesday, April 10, 2012

How to Judge the potential of Chain Maille Jewelry

When you hear the term "chain maille" you might think of a knight in shining armor before you think about a dainty set of earrings or a luxurious necklace. However, this style of jewelry is becoming increasingly popular, and not just because of the Lord of the Rings trilogy. Interlocking rings, added decorated by beads and other eye-catching accents, are making their way onto the fashion runway and into music videos, and we are sure to see more of it in the near future. Chain maille is still made largely by hand, and the capability varies substantially. So, how can you tell the good from the bad? Find out the ins and outs of chain jewelry in this article.

Finger Joint Swelling

Chain maille: a brief argument of its history and the rise of chain maille jewelry.

Chain maille was used as a form of armor as early as 1100 Bc. We know this because archaeologists have found small remains of the armor dating back to this era. The techniques used to link the private rings only slightly even though the maille prolonged to be used heavily until about 16th century Ad. Interlocking rings were used for jewelry throughout this large span of history but there have been no examples of involved maille jewelry pieces like we see today. This may be due to an incomplete archaeological record, primarily because jewelers would melt down old jewelry as fashion trends shifted, like they do today. More likely, maille was plainly not in fashion throughout history. Today, when we look at maille, we can join together it with romanticized history, which only makes it more beautiful in expanding to its metallic gleam. The earliest forms of ornamental chain weaves can be seen in paintings colse to the 18th century, long after maille had been phased out for newer styles of armor created from metal plates.

What can you typically expect modern chain maille jewelry to be made from?

Steel
The most base types of steel used are stainless steel or galvanized steel. Stainless steel will not rust and remains clean. Galvanized steel has been treated to resist rusting by dipping it in zinc and tends to manufacture a smell over time if it is not cleaned. There are mixed debates over the protection of galvanized steel if kept in feel with your skin for long periods, so please keep this in mind. Also, if you are allergic to zinc, you may want to avoid galvanized steel. Galvanized steel is one of the least costly forms of wire used to make chain maille (you can buy it as fencing wire at a hardware store) so avoid paying a premium. Stainless steel is more costly than galvanized, is determined higher quality, and surgical grade stainless is hypoallergenic. All steel is comparatively heavy so even small items will have some heft.

Aluminum/Anodized Aluminum
Aluminum is an affordable metal. Generally, a gray metallic sheen is "bright aluminum" which is cleaner than normal aluminum. All aluminum can manufacture a black residue over time which can rub off on your skin or clothing. This is caused by oxidation, like rust on iron, but aluminum oxidization is mild and does not damage the metal like rust does. Moving aluminum has less rub-off than normal aluminum and is shinier. Anodized aluminum is a recipe of treating the aluminum to give it layers of vibrant color. This layer of color reduces rub-off to roughly nothing. The colors are often crisp and beautiful, and though the layer of color can be sturdy if made properly, it can chip off to characterize the gray metal under over time. Do not expect an allergic reaction to aluminum if you can cope cans of soda.

Niobium/Anodized Niobium
Niobium is downright pretty. It is markedly more costly than aluminum, but it is normally worth the cost. Niobium is hypoallergenic and is a astonishing dark gray. The real beauty of niobium is the colors created when it is anodized. The shining, pastel colors will leave you gawking. It is not uncommon to see silver paired with anodized niobium. This is a medium weight metal, similar to silver.

Copper
When shined these rings look like a new penny. You can often find metals that have been coated in copper instead of being made of pure copper. You should ordinarily avoid these. Pure copper in effect causes fewer allergic reactions than the other metals that are paired in economy look-alikes. If your skin turns green when you wear it, this is typically caused by the acid in your sweat. Quarterly washing of the copper and your skin will minimize this reaction. Give real copper a try sometime if you are not in effect allergic to it - i.e. It does not make you itchy or swell up. My personal feel is that you will react better to the pure metal. For a quick shine, wipe down your copper jewelry in ketchup. Copper is not as heavy as steel but larger pieces will be noticeable.

Brass/Bronze
These are alloys made of copper/zinc and copper/tin respectively. Bronze, if well cleaned, looks a lot like copper. The real unlikeness is the "aged" look that they both acquire. Brass is the affordable solution to gold if you want the metallic yellow color. Since these are alloyed you will be at risk for allergies to all of their contents, so be aware of your personal needs when you buy. Both of these metals have some heft to them.

Silver
Silver, oh how we love silver. It is so beloved that there is not much new to say about it here. You can find three major forms of silver - fine silver, sterling silver, and argentium silver. Fine silver is effectively pure, and because of this it is often too soft to use in chain maille. It would pull apart too easily. Most ordinarily you will find sterling silver, which does have a petite bit of copper and other metals mixed in to an alloy. This makes sterling silver stronger and better fine for long-lasting chains. Finally, argentium silver is comparatively new on the shop and uses chromium in the alloy instead of copper. If you are allergic to sterling silver you may have better luck with argentium. It is not widely available so you may have to ask man to make a special piece for you.

What makes good chain maille jewelry?
This record will not go into the aesthetics of the jewelry. Instead, it will focus on a few technical aspects of the construction which will let you know the capability of the item you may want to purchase.

The easiest way to judge the capability of a chain maille piece is to look at the rings carefully. If the rings are butted, which is if the ends of the wire have been pressed together (most chain jewelry is butted), make sure that there is no gap in the middle of the ends. Small gaps in the ring can cause neighboring rings to slip apart, especially if two petite gaps line up with one another and then pull apart. If the rings have no illustrated gaps then you can be determined that the piece will withstand normal wear and tear. Minimizing gaps also ensure that the piece will not pull at hairs as often. Also, ensure that the ends of the wire are lined up with one another so that you cannot feel a scratchy end if you run your fingers along the joint. If the edges are exposed the piece may scratch you when you wear it or may be more in effect caught by clothing or other objects as you wear it.

You want to fee me how much? I can get a chain from Target for half of that!
While some types of chain can be mass produced, its inherent complexity means most chain maille must still be made by hand, one ring at a time. Because of this added labor you can expect to pay a comparatively higher price versus some artificial pieces. There is now a large influx of chain coming in from India and China where labor prices are effectively nothing. While these sources do allow you to pick up some chain without breaking the bank, please pay close attentiveness to the capability tips listed above. Often the imported types of chain are quickly made with petite care for quality, and the range is greatly limited.

Good chain maille is beautiful, long lasting, and infinitely varied. Take the extra second to appreciate the work that a maille artisan has performed and understand that if you invest in their high capability work then you will be rewarded with a hand-crafted beauty.

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